Tags:DryWall Driver  Cut Off Saw  Circular Saw Paint Stirrer

(Warning! Kickback is when the back of the blade binds and causes the saw to suddenly jump violently away from the material, and possibly out of your hand, causing possible injury, damage to the material and damage to the saw. One way to avoid this is to go slow with your cut. If you feel resistance and notice the motor wind down, kickback could be imminent! Stop forward motion with your saw. Release the trigger and hold the saw steadily in place until the blade comes to a complete stop. This type of kickback usually occurs when making a rip cut and is caused by the wood having natural tension in it, pinching the back of the blade. To remedy this problem, place a wedge in the curf (the portion of the material that is taken out by the blade) in between the two sides of the cut. Other ways kickback can occur are if you or the material or the saw gets bumped or are otherwise disturbed. This can cause the back of the blade to be moved to the side causing it to bind. Another way is if you let go of the saw while it is still in the material and the blade is still moving. Still another way is if you try to cut a radius. Circular blades are intended for straight cuts, straight blades, like jigsaw blades, are intended for circular cuts. If you use it for anything else you are taking your chances. Don't try to cut the wood in between the sawhorses, always on the outside. More specifically, never have the material supported on both sides. Support the long side of the board and have the short side be free of contact. Kickback can also occur if the blade has contact when you "pull the trigger". But mostly, avoid kickback by paying attention to how much pressure is on the back of the blade.)

Now you are ready to make a cut. I like to start with just the front end of the shoe plate resting comfortably on the material. Make sure the blade is not touching the material when you "pull the trigger". Set the blade in line with the cut line so that it is on the side of the line that is the "waist" side. Make a few small "test" cuts moving the blade closer to the line each time. When you finish the cut, the mark should still be visible but get as close to it as you can. Remember: you can always take more off the board if it is too long but you can't put more on if it is too short! Make sure the power chord can move freely. Try to relax as you make the cut. Be gentile with your motions. If you fight the saw, the saw will probably win. Cutting slowly will make a better cut. Focus your vision on the blade, not on the wood, from the handle side of the saw. Make sure the shoe plate is resting completely and flatly on the material. Less side to side motion makes a straighter cut. The blade can be maneuvered to stay on the line but watch for kickback. I like to push the saw with my body rather that with my arm. Cut past the end of the cut. To avoid the "chink" that can occur when the waist side falls off, place an object that is about 1/4" to 1/2" below the waist piece so that it doesn't fall too far.

This is in no way intended to be an exhaustive essay. It is just a few notions I had on a Sunday afternoon while thinking about my circular saw. Use your own good judgment. Leave a comment and Happy Sawing!The news come from http://www.bossgoo.com/